Taking on the 156 Selespeed Sportwaggon

2b1ask1

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13,367
#1
I figure I'd best start a new thread to keep track of everything I do to the 156 over the next few weeks, moths and hopefully years!

What I know of it so far is it is a peach!

It is registered on a 51 plate but is Jan 02 and is the 02 upgrade/facelift so I can only assume that as that was not available until April 02 this must have been a demonstrator! It is well specified with Nero on Nero on Nero & CF centre of dash/clocks/ashtray etc. Wheels are immaculate, paint has suffered for being stood, in particular a whitening on the rear corner of the roof from a persistent puddle; I'll have a go at that sometime...

It has been repaired by Duncan in Bristol following a big cambelt failure seemingly at elevated revs! This at 50,000 miles. Duncan's repair is spot on and it pulls like a train. I find the suspension and deep profile tyres are wallowy but I'm comparing that to the Maserati 4200 that has 35 profiles an a sports button to tighten everything up!

I need it for my work and today I loaded it well and it coped ok. I dropped the seats down and was pleasantly surprised to find a ski hatch and split folding seats! I'd been lead to believe it was a single bench back there.

This evening I have dismantled and fixed both the dog net and load cover roller recoils so they are now 100%, took a bit of head scratching and two 3mm drills donated to the cause (cut down to make dowels) as the silly plastic lugs were missing as I'm sure you all know happens. Pippin the dog will be happy now!

More as it happens :D
 

conaero

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26,916
#2
Well done Newton and welcome to SA!

Yes, I had the same issues with the "roller blind" and like you, a bit of head scratching managed to sort it.

They are great cars, loved mine. Good luck with the Selespeed (AKA SillySpeed) they had horrendous issues with it but I suppose if it works now its sorted.

The Selespeed was used as a test bed for out 4200's and the pump was the main issue hence why they are listed as cheap for the Alfa one and you can fit it in the Maz (but I wouldn't)

Front suspensions noises will drive you nuts!

I look forward to seeing her progress.
 

2b1ask1

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#3
So today I found out if I should do the shells as well... It started knocking on the way to Leicester so I nursed it home and will put it up on the seesaws tomorrow and strip the bottom down. Does anyone know the torque settings for the big ends and sump. Are they stretch bolts or tabbed or replacements? Will know if the crank is ok when it is stripped.
 
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5,482
#4
So today I found out if I should do the shells as well... It started knocking on the way to Leicester so I nursed it home and will put it up on the seesaws tomorrow and strip the bottom down. Does anyone know the torque settings for the big ends and sump. Are they stretch bolts or tabbed or replacements? Will know if the crank is ok when it is stripped.
oh ****!! There is a good guide onthe 156 forum for this, crank should be alright Duncan would have checked that. May want to get the oil pump checked while the sump is off. I know what the bottom end going badly is like, had it twice happen to me in a twinny GTV.
 

conaero

Forum Owner
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26,916
#5
The crank shells usually go about 6-12 months after a cambelt failure. The impact of the Pistons into the valves make the end shells go out of round then they start lunching themselves.

Did your car have a recent failure?

Think you have to remove the subframe so you may as well just take the engine out.

Just read your initial thread, hate it when I am right sometimes.
 

2b1ask1

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13,367
#6
Shouldn't need to take the subframe out; the back engine mount maybe along with the front cat section... Didn't get to do it on Sunday as I don't have the correct bits for the sump bolts!

Will get those tomorrow hopefully.
 
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#8
Number three is the problem one, sits above the exhaust. Any problems with too thin oil, or oil flow it gets too hot! :(
 

2b1ask1

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#9
Well the shells are changed; I could find no damage to the crank but two of the top shells were devoid of white metal in a couple of places, there was however only one tiny patch of accumulated white metal crud at the 3 o'clock on one top shell. I'm happy to give it a go at running on new shells only. I am disappointed the shells were not done as routine given this is a known issue (if not by me previously)...

Sump removed is a sod in place with hidden fixings all over the shop! Hopefully it will be dry tomorrow for the sump replacement and run up.

image.jpg
 

2b1ask1

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#12
Well hopefully the shells will sort out the knocks and some fresh oil and filters will get it all working nicely; I didn't get any oil light or other issues on the way home from Leicester. Given it had stood for so long I was going to change the fluids this weekend anyway! Brakes are vague to say the least and I need to check all the pads and make sure the disks are all de-rusted properly; I'll probably find the wheels are welded to the hubs as a little bonus too!

A question for anyone who knows???? Laying under the car working on the sump I looked up behind the engine to a large black plastic box covered in ribs and noted a gold coloured strap to the underside with what seems to be two bolts missing (horizontal to the car) probably M10 or M8. Any idea what this part is and how important are these bolts? I'll try an get a photo in the morning.
 

2b1ask1

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#16
Hmm... All back together in failing light last night but not the success I was hoping for, it is whining quite loudly so I'll run it for a bit an see if it quietens down but I suspect either the mains were gone as well or the crank was damaged just not visibly... So it is an engine out next and a proper rebuild. This is not what I signed up for as I don't need another project car, this one was to take the pressure off getting the van sorted.

So If I'm destined to strip and rebuild the darn thing properly what other 'quirks' does the 2.0 TS have I should do whilst I'm in there, obviously I'll change the cam belt again as this is near enough 3 years old anyway even though it has not been used? New water and oil pump? Small ends? 50k on the clock, am I likely to need a rebore?
 

2b1ask1

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13,367
#17
Ok so I have a sort of workshop manual to go with (mostly for the torque settings etc. and this seems to go down the route of removing the engine and gearbox together, surely it is possible to split them in situ? and just pull the engine? Likewise is it possible to drop the aircon pump off so no need to de-gas?

Advise please???