3.0 75 Progress thread

Chris155

Member
Messages
196
11 Sept 2012

I have a new car! Well new to me anyway...

It's a 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf, 150k miles, many many previous owners, needs a little TLC. I picked it up on Saturday, after spending Thursday and Friday fixing my 145.

The most obvious problem is the front gearbox mounts are worn and it makes some pretty worrying noises when chaging gear if you're rough with the clutch.

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The indicators and main beam didn't work but we've fixed this with a new indicator stalk and a little earth work. Driving it 120 miles home without them was mildly "entertaining"... Other than this all of the electrics seem to be working; I'm shocked.

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Sodding scotch locks...

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Bodywise, it seems to be half decent which I'm very pleased to find.

Jacking points are either solid or have been repaired

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The boot floor has had a little attention

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I think I might have to remove the plastic (rubber) side trim

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This needs looking at too;

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This is just annoying;

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I'm also wondering if it's been in a rear end shunt at some point in it's life. The boot lid finish doesn't match the rest of the car, the reflector strip on the lid doesn't match the rear light clusters in colour. The lid doesn't sir properly either, it leaks (it seems) and the opening is slightly bent.

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The exhaust is, well, it's not that great. It sounds good but it's been fouling the inner drive shaft bolts. I've affected a temp fix using some big zipties...

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This is a bit more of a problem;

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The alloys are corroding slightly;

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And I was amused to find the spare wheel is wearing it's original P600 tyre!

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Chris155

Member
Messages
196
15 Sept 2012

Found the cause of the rusty dribble;

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And with that rust proofed we changed the gearbox mounts. It was a right PITA to do them as I couldn't undo the propshaft - I was going to pull the car off the axle stands and I ended up hurting my shoulder in the process...

One of the mounts was OK but one was half decent;

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Chris155

Member
Messages
196
16 Sept 2012

I recognise this isn't the best repair ever devised but I had limited options in terms of paint and no filler. I don't think it matters though as it's completely hidden and all I was trying to achieve was to stop it rusting.

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The gutters around the boot were pretty manky;

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With some adult supervision to ensure I didn't eat the polish (It smells like sherbet lollipops...) It cleaned up OK;

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There are some parts that need a bit of paint but they can wait until I have some of the right colour;

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I think it might need a new rear window seal?

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The rest of the bodywork needs some work;

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Chris155

Member
Messages
196
22 Sept 2012

I had it up on a lift yesterday for a proper rust hunt, wheels off, arch liners out and...

There is one tiny patch underneath that may need attention. Marvellous!!!:D

I took of lots of pics with the intention of creating a composite image.

It's also been mentioned that its missing it brake bias valve. I did a rudimentary check upon hearing this and found the fronts locked under heavy breaking and concluded it wasn't worth worrying about.

On the way to the garage I work at (occasionally) yesterday I met a very large tractor, very suddenly, stomped on the brakes with good reason and found myself no longer looking at the tractor but at the hedge on the right hand side of the road. At 40mph... On the lock stop...

I have a new priority fix now...

Pre Wax oil;

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Arch liners removed;

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Post wax oil and some minor rust treatment;

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Hid's!

(I used the same iso, apature and exposure for all the following pics, the camera was also on a tripod which I didn't move nor did I alter the position of the lift

Standard Bulbs (dipped beam)

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After fitting - Dipped and main, can't remember which is which though!

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Chris155

Member
Messages
196
7th Oct 2012

I reckon it looks better with black trim;

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After washing it I noticed some soad suds had collected beneath the winscreen scuttle so I went hunting for rust again;

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It seems some body sealer has allowed water to collect behind it and the rot has set in. Fortunately it's only surface rust atm.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
196
16 Dec 2012

It took a few weeks on and off but I've finished cleaning the top of the bulkhead up;

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Chris155

Member
Messages
196
Dec 2012

So with that finished, I tried starting it and... it wouldn't run on all 6 cylinders...

We (well my Dad in this case) replaced the ignition leads and it picked up from 4 to 5 cylinders. Also, for some reason, we found that if you press lightly on the lead to no 2 it picks up on all 6 for a short time (30 secs).

It was then that Father found a large, flat, washer sat on the front cross member and being experienced with V6's identified it as the one that should be firmly sandwiched between the crankshaft pulley and a large nut... ****. (Oui, the nut is AWOL too)

I did run a compression check and it showed an even 12 bar over all 6 cylinders.

So, this misfire... The one on 2... Well, we found that if you pressed on the lead to 2 it cures it but if you disconnect the lead to 3 it doesn't make any difference to the way the engine runs, meaning the misfire was on 3... But why does messing with 2 fix 3?! (See video below)



Well it's because I was leaning on on the aav at the same time...

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We also found that the wiring to the temp sender was broken.

It's now running better but it's still not 100% right. It's running way too rich and it still has an occasional misfire with an associated power loss.

It's a motronic car that's been reverted back to the earlier jetronic fuel injection. The injectors and the fuel pressure regulator don't appear to have been changed but they do have different part no's listed for them. A faulty pressure regulator or injector could also be the problem.

New regulator fitted;

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And then, instead of working out how to fit the injectors, I went on a cleaning effort and, inevitably, found some rust...

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Chris155

Member
Messages
196
June 2013

I found a clutch for it a while back but I've not had any time to look at it till today;

'A' frame removed

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Gearbox out;

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The pivot for the actuating fork was OK

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But I did find the remains of an old pivot in the bellhousing. The clutch was stupidly heavy and bit at the very beginning of the pedal. We think that one side of the release bearing where the fork locks into it had broken some time ago, then the other side failed when I got it;

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And then I started to look at the brakes. As one pad was completly worn out and 1 was like new, I think there might be a problem there...

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Chris155

Member
Messages
196
June 2013

So, my Dad stripped, cleaned, polished and rebuilt the rear calipers last week:

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And refitted to the gearbox...


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We put the box back in the car over the weekend. Fitting it back in was easy enough, we did use 2 trolley jacks to do it thought.

Bleading the brakes and the clutch proved problemtic to say the least though even with an easyblead. The brake pedal is still mushy and the brakes only just work.

We're hoping thatbleading the brakes whilst the car is level on a 2 post lift will sort this out. Failing that we think the hand brake adjustment might be off, causing the problem.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
196
November 2013

It's taken the best part of 6 months to get it through an MOT. The rear brakes simply wouldn't blead. We tried everything and eventually sent them off to be remanufactured. Even then they still wouldn't. We sourced another set of calipers, had them remanufactured... TWICE.

Then it flew through it's MOT.

I wish I could say it was me that got it though, but it was my Dad.:blushed:

Since then, he painted all the trim, buffed and polished it, fixed the interior lights, the rattling door locks and various other odds and sods. But it is now taxed and insured again. Just in time for winter...
 

zagatoes30

Member
Messages
20,758
Stunning i love these restorations with photos of all the work you can really see the effort that goes into them - well done to you (and your Dad)
 

Supercharged16v

New Member
Messages
558
Now that's brilliant !!!

1 - I am amazed that the car is in SUCH good condition - rust wize !
2 - You need to fix that windscreen seal ASAP mate. Mine has water coming in from there now and it has rusted the whole rear end , areas which are extremely hard to repair
3 - Your rear calipers were NOT the issue with your brakes not bleeding. It was/is your master brake cylinder AND the lack of the brake proportioning valve at the front !

That is expensive to buy, impossible to rebuild, but despite that, if you remove it, not only you are re-routing the brake pipes on the master brake cylinder, but you are also weakening the pressure.

So now, your pedal goes further down, and if the pipe routing isnt right, on hard breaking, you will get more force going to the front LEFT of your car , rather than the right side, causing the car to spin and your steering to pull.


Let me try to explain what I mean....

Brake master cylinder WITHOUT the brake proportioning valve, goes like this : Single exit of the master cylinder in the front end - feeds the line for the REAR calipers.
Then the other two exits of the master cylinder go to front left and right wheels.

Now get this :

WITH the proportional valve, it goes like this : Single exit of the front end of the Master cylinder goes to the FRONT RIGHT !!! caliper
Then the front left wheel and the rears go through the proportional valve !!!!

Get it ?

I was extremely surprised to find out myself , but after suffering from swapping calipers and brake cylinders like yourself, I learned ...the hard way ! hahaha


Check yours out. The brakes of the 75 / GTV6 are BRILLIANT when they are working properly, and your brake pedal should be firm and bite from higher than the middle.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
196
Thanks for your input, it does clarify and explain a few things. I have had it try and swap ends on me under hard braking and having seen the state of the rear pads I assumed it was down the caliper being seized. We were, however, aware of the biasing valve issue but couldn't work out exactly what it was missing, if anything.

In terms of the problems we had bleading the brakes, by blanking off the rear caliper we were able to get a firm pedal, further investigation showed that it was drawing air into the system, so there was a problem there. The mot test also showed that the left/right balance is spot on as is the front / rear bias.

But I take your point and I will look at it again.

ATM ive got bigger issues in terms of it's developed a misfire but it doesn't appear to be on any one particular cylinder. We've checked the cam timing and found that whilst this is right, the rotor arm doesn't point to no 1 at tdc on 1, nor does it line up with the mark on the dizzy housing. - it's about 30deg out and the rotor arm points to no 2.

We think that the timing is correct though (things have been adjust to compensate?) just waiting on a timing light to check it.
 

Chris155

Member
Messages
196
Thanks for your input, it does clarify and explain a few things. I have had it try and swap ends on me under hard braking and having seen the state of the rear pads I assumed it was down the caliper being seized. We were, however, aware of the biasing valve issue but couldn't work out exactly what it was missing, if anything.

In terms of the problems we had bleading the brakes, by blanking off the rear caliper we were able to get a firm pedal, further investigation showed that it was drawing air into the system, so there was a problem there. The mot test also showed that the left/right balance is spot on as is the front / rear bias.

But I take your point and I will look at it again.

ATM ive got bigger issues in terms of it's developed a misfire but it doesn't appear to be on any one particular cylinder. We've checked the cam timing and found that whilst this is right, the rotor arm doesn't point to no 1 at tdc on 1, nor does it line up with the mark on the dizzy housing. - it's about 30deg out and the rotor arm points to no 2.

We think that the timing is correct though (things have been adjust to compensate?) just waiting on a timing light to check it.
 

Supercharged16v

New Member
Messages
558
I just might... hang on a second....


By the way, regarding the missfire issue, I had a very similar problem with a 2.5 GTV6. Turned out to be flooding the cylinders with fuel causing missfires and then failure to start properly....
That was a faulty valve in the middle of the injector rails , the one which has a vacuum hose on it. It wasnt working properly and it was causing all those issues.

Brb with the picture if I can find it...