Maserati GT Rear Parking Sensors

[safrane]

Put it in R with ignition on amd put your ear to the sensors. You should hear a 'click click click' in rapid succession.

No clicks = duff sensor.

 

[bigbob]

Thanks. Trouble is it goes into 'parking aid' unavailable when R is engaged.

To double the trouble my passenger door now no longer shuts as when I opened it after the battery reset I used the none micro switch override on the door to open it and it is stuck in!

 

[safrane]

You should still get the clicks as the error message just overrides the internal systems.

 

[bigbob]

Ta, tried and could not here any of the four so could be the module.

Bigger problem is that passenger door will not close and I need to go out later.

 

[dickygrace]

Ta, tried and could not here any of the four so could be the module.

Bigger problem is that passenger door will not close and I need to go out later.

There’s a rubber cover below the locking mechanism for direct access to free it. Sensor is more than likely to be one, not the ECU. Can anyone verify the Skoda part worked on their car? I’ve been told they’re slightly different.

 

[bigbob]

There’s a rubber cover below the locking mechanism for direct access to free it. Sensor is more than likely to be one, not the ECU. Can anyone verify the Skoda part worked on their car? I’ve been told they’re slightly different.

Ta, lock ok now. Will look around for an auto electrician. The alternative is to drive it to you and make a quick exit.

 

[namaste]

There’s a rubber cover below the locking mechanism for direct access to free it. Sensor is more than likely to be one, not the ECU. Can anyone verify the Skoda part worked on their car? I’ve been told they’re slightly different.

The Skoda one works. I had a code for the inside driver parking sensor and having recently removed my rear bumper, I deliberately swapped it out for the Skoda one twice, back and forth, to make sure it was the sensor and not an intermittent connection issue. The Skoda sensor has the exact same part numbers stamped on it as the original, there just isn't a little Ferrari sticker on it like the originals. The part numbers stamped on are: PA66-GF15 AND G11684A0.

Now this is the iffy part. I took my bad sensor, a good original sensor, and the Skoda sensor to see if I could test the resistances between the connections to determine what makes a duff sensor. The bad sensor seems to have a lower resistance reading on a couple of pins where the original had a very high reading (i.e. Kila ohms vs Mega ohms). But the Skoda sensor had different resistance readings to the original working sensor. My concern is that whilst it removes the error, the sensor may operate differently. The proximity may be shorter or longer. You may only see the difference if you replaced all four at once and compared them to the originals. It could be they need power on them to make proper measurements though, and considering they have the exact same part numbers stamped on them, its strange that there would be any operational differences. Personaly I'm not concerned.

I posted in this thread about removing the module and resoldering the joints. I just want to make it clear that this did work for a couple of weeks but then the parking warning came back. I later had the car serviced and they found a code for the inside driver parking sensor. So I suspect the sensor was failing on and off and anything to improve the connection was helping it breifly.

 

[bigbob]

The Skoda one works. I had a code for the inside driver parking sensor and having recently removed my rear bumper, I deliberately swapped it out for the Skoda one twice, back and forth, to make sure it was the sensor and not an intermittent connection issue. The Skoda sensor has the exact same part numbers stamped on it as the original, there just isn't a little Ferrari sticker on it like the originals. The part numbers stamped on are: PA66-GF15 AND G11684A0.

Now this is the iffy part. I took my bad sensor, a good original sensor, and the Skoda sensor to see if I could test the resistances between the connections to determine what makes a duff sensor. The bad sensor seems to have a lower resistance reading on a couple of pins where the original had a very high reading (i.e. Kila ohms vs Mega ohms). But the Skoda sensor had different resistance readings to the original working sensor. My concern is that whilst it removes the error, the sensor may operate differently. The proximity may be shorter or longer. You may only see the difference if you replaced all four at once and compared them to the originals. It could be they need power on them to make proper measurements though, and considering they have the exact same part numbers stamped on them, its strange that there would be any operational differences. Personaly I'm not concerned.

I posted in this thread about removing the module and resoldering the joints. I just want to make it clear that this did work for a couple of weeks but then the parking warning came back. I later had the car serviced and they found a code for the inside driver parking sensor. So I suspect the sensor was failing on and off and anything to improve the connection was helping it breifly.

Great post. Are the sensors the same front and back and if mine at the front work before I select reverse which sends the error then I guess my issue is with a rear sensor?

Surely at that price if you have the rear bumper off is it not worth replacing all four?

Finally I see it plug or play or do I need a Maserati machine plugged in to reset the things? Ta

 

[namaste]

Great post. Are the sensors the same front and back and if mine at the front work before I select reverse which sends the error then I guess my issue is with a rear sensor?

Surely at that price if you have the rear bumper off is it not worth replacing all four?

Finally I see it plug or play or do I need a Maserati machine plugged in to reset the things? Ta

I think the front sensors are the same, someone mentioned they're the same part number in another thread. It sounds like the rears are the problem for you. You can turn the front sensors off and assuming a fault light won't show if a front sensor is faulty and the front sensors are switched off, you can perhaps make sure the rears are the problem.

If you're okay with DIY, Voicey made this reply in another thread about getting at the sensors without removing the bumper. You can probably get to them all by taking the back boxes off and reaching into the tailpipe holes, but taking the back boxes off can be as much as a pain as taking the bumper off sometimes. So I would PM Voicey and get him to clarify his methods. From then you can either buy one replacement sensor and try replacing one at a time until the fault goes, or as you suggest, just replace them all at once. Up to you.

The error on the dash will go as soon as no faulty sensors are left, you don't need to reset anything, although the fault code may remain in the ECU until its cleared, I'm not sure.

 

[bigbob]

I think the front sensors are the same, someone mentioned they're the same part number in another thread. It sounds like the rears are the problem for you. You can turn the front sensors off and assuming a fault light won't show if a front sensor is faulty and the front sensors are switched off, you can perhaps make sure the rears are the problem.

If you're okay with DIY, Voicey made this reply in another thread about getting at the sensors without removing the bumper. You can probably get to them all by taking the back boxes off and reaching into the tailpipe holes, but taking the back boxes off can be as much as a pain as taking the bumper off sometimes. So I would PM Voicey and get him to clarify his methods. From then you can either buy one replacement sensor and try replacing one at a time until the fault goes, or as you suggest, just replace them all at once. Up to you.

The error on the dash will go as soon as no faulty sensors are left, you don't need to reset anything, although the fault code may remain in the ECU until its cleared, I'm not sure.

Thanks. Like the idea of switching off the front sensors, will look in the screen set up menu. I’ve already got the ‘stop and go’ or whatever it’s called switched off so they only come on when I press the button the dash.

Another thing my rear bumper could do with a repaint so is it better to put in the new sensors unpainted and just get them done with the respray?

 

[namaste]

Thanks. Like the idea of switching off the front sensors, will look in the screen set up menu. I’ve already got the ‘stop and go’ or whatever it’s called switched off so they only come on when I press the button the dash.

Another thing my rear bumper could do with a repaint so is it better to put in the new sensors unpainted and just get them done with the respray?

The button on the dash is what I mean, right of the steering wheel. Sounds like you've already done what I was getting at.

If you're getting the rear bumper re-sprayed I would get them done then. Get them to spray them off the car though and put them in after. If they're sprayed in place I would imagine the clear coat would bridge the gap between sensor head and bumper and will peel if you ever remove them later on.

 

[bigbob]

The button on the dash is what I mean, right of the steering wheel. Sounds like you've already done what I was getting at.

If you're getting the rear bumper re-sprayed I would get them done then. Get them to spray them off the car though and put them in after. If they're sprayed in place I would imagine the clear coat would bridge the gap between sensor head and bumper and will peel if you ever remove them later on.

Cool. On your photos on the other post I can see how they plug into the cable to do both Maser/Skoda sensors just push in and twist to clip in?

 

[namaste]

Cool. On your photos on the other post I can see how they plug into the cable to do both Maser/Skoda sensors just push in and twist to clip in?

The bumper is back on (sensors all working...for now) otherwise I would have done a couple of photos, but the sensors clip straight down into their housings (no twisting) with two clips either side. They are quite stiff and once you get one side unclipped to work on the other, its prone to snapping back into locked position again. This is with two hands available, I couldn't manage this with one hand through the tailpipe hole, so not sure how people do that. Maybe my fingers just aren't strong enough. The plug has a clip that you push down on right at the end (wire end) and it should release and again pulled right off, no twisting.

 

[bigbob]

The bumper is back on (sensors all working...for now) otherwise I would have done a couple of photos, but the sensors clip straight down into their housings (no twisting) with two clips either side. They are quite stiff and once you get one side unclipped to work on the other, its prone to snapping back into locked position again. This is with two hands available, I couldn't manage this with one hand through the tailpipe hole, so not sure how people do that. Maybe my fingers just aren't strong enough. The plug has a clip that you push down on right at the end (wire end) and it should release and again pulled right off, no twisting.

Great, so are you using the Skoda sensors and they are ok?

 

[namaste]

Great, so are you using the Skoda sensors and they are ok?

See my post here.

I only replaced one, and it works in that the parking sensor unavailable warning is gone and the sensors are showing on the dash again. Thats good enough for me. Bearing in mind I'm working on my exhaust at the moment and the car is still up on axle stands so haven't driven it. But putting ignition on and sticking it in reverse, everything seems to be working.

 

[bigbob]

See my post here.

I only replaced one, and it works in that the parking sensor unavailable warning is gone and the sensors are showing on the dash again. Thats good enough for me. Bearing in mind I'm working on my exhaust at the moment and the car is still up on axle stands so haven't driven it. But putting ignition on and sticking it in reverse, everything seems to be working.

LOL, I can't remember what I read two days ago!

 

[bigbob]

See my post here.

I only replaced one, and it works in that the parking sensor unavailable warning is gone and the sensors are showing on the dash again. Thats good enough for me. Bearing in mind I'm working on my exhaust at the moment and the car is still up on axle stands so haven't driven it. But putting ignition on and sticking it in reverse, everything seems to be working.

I see what you mean about the clicking now. I put the ignition on, left the car in Park and switched on the front sensors and they all click so all fine at the front. So I guess that means the control unit is all fine as it's a combined one front and back?

If I engage Reverse the system fails so I can hear no clicks at the back. So how do I work out which sensor is gone or is likely to be the wiring at the back? Ta

 

[namaste]

I see what you mean about the clicking now. I put the ignition on, left the car in Park and switched on the front sensors and they all click so all fine at the front. So I guess that means the control unit is all fine as it's a combined one front and back?

If I engage Reverse the system fails so I can hear no clicks at the back. So how do I work out which sensor is gone or is likely to be the wiring at the back? Ta

Process of elimination? Buy a Skoda one and replace each in turn until they start working again. Or as you said before, replace them all for ~£45 and be done with it.

 

[Moz1000]

I see what you mean about the clicking now. I put the ignition on, left the car in Park and switched on the front sensors and they all click so all fine at the front. So I guess that means the control unit is all fine as it's a combined one front and back?

If I engage Reverse the system fails so I can hear no clicks at the back. So how do I work out which sensor is gone or is likely to be the wiring at the back? Ta

Or take the car to someone with the SD3 kit which will id the offending sensor.
Moz

 

[Moz1000]

I am intreaged by this 'clicking'. It suggests something mechanical inside the sensor like a relay, or is it sonar? Anyone know?
Moz