Having changed 2 complete sets of discs and pads on my cars in the last week, I feel that I can speak on this subject as something of an expert!
I will detail below how I changed the discs and pads, but will take no responsibility for anyone who uses this as a guide.
Tools required:
Trolley jack/lift
Axle stands
Socket set
Wheel wrench/torque wrench
Wheel chocks
19mm offset spanner
Flat-bladed screwdriver
Pliers
To remove the wheels I have a separate 22mm socket that I wrapped in insulating tape to make sure the wheels can't get scratched or damaged during removal:
FRONT DISC AND PAD CHANGE
I chose to change both front discs at the same time, but they can also be done individually if preferred. Chock the rear wheels and then loosen the front wheel bolts with a 22mm socket.
Find the front jacking point(s) on the car. These are identifiable as square plates with a round hole in the middle. Mine have a little surface corrosion, so they're on the list to clean up and protect. Jack the car up on these points ONLY
The nearside jacking point area for reference:
Once raised to a sufficient height to remove the wheels, support the car on axle stands. I use the following location:
Remove the wheel and store safely, making sure it won't fall over on it's face. You then have full access to the discs and pads:
Take note of the location of the brake pad warning sensor on the front nearside. There is a 2-pin plug situated on the upper wishbone:
The cable runs from the plug to the inside brake pad:
To remove the brake pads you will need to remove the 2 pins and spring that hold the pads in place. Use a suitable tool to drive the pins out - I use an old screwdriver shaft. Remove the top pin first and make sure that the spring doesn't fly out and hit something/you
With the top pin removed the spring no longer has any tension. Lever the spring downwards and remove. Drive the bottom pin out next.
Pins and spring removed:
Now remove the old brake pads. They might be tightly held in the caliper, so use some pliers to pull them out. Note the brake pad wear sensor is still fitted to the brake pad.
My old pads were not too badly worn as they were fitted late last year. I have fitted brand new pads regardless and will keep these as emergency spares.
A close up of the other end of the wear sensor. It simply slots into place in the middle of the brake pad. Mine hadn't worn at all, so was cleaned and reused. £11 plus delivery charge saved!
If you're simply changing pads then jump down to where I show them being refitted.
If you're changing the discs then read on...
The calipers need removal next. You will need a 19mm socket for the two bolts that hold the caliper to the hub at the rear:
With the bolts removed you will need to support the caliper. I use an axle stand:
Disc removal time. There are 2 13mm bolts holding the disc to the hub. Undo these and the disc should slide off the hub with a little help
My old discs were in a bad state; holes filled with crud (despite periodic cleaning) and cracked around the holes. The new discs are built to a specification that should reduce this significantly.
You have now removed everything, but before refitting I strongly recommend you clean everything up thoroughly.
I clean the hub with degreaser, a wire brush and then a stanley knife blade to ensure the face of the hub is completely clean and flat. Even the slightest dirt left on the hub can make the disc vibrate and compromise braking efficiency and ride:
View attachment 29227
Next, spend some time cleaning the brake caliper thoroughly, especially the stainless steel guides that the pads slide on. My calipers had a huge build up of dirt, so I spent a lot of time cleaning off as much as I could. What I've realised is that I now want to completely overhaul the calipers with new seals, pistons and bleed nipples as well as a fresh coat of paint (in the best colour!).
Fit the new disc to the clean hub and secure with the 2 13mm bolts. I cleaned the bolts with a wire brush and applied a little copper grease to the threads to make removal easier next time:
Then refit the cleaned caliper, securing it with the 2 19mm bolts. Again, these got a good clean. It's advised to use Loctite or a similar threadlock on these bolts when refitting. Do not put copper grease on these bolts.
Time to fit the new brake pads. Put a thin smear of copper grease on the rear of the pads; this will stop them from squealing. Also put some of the grease on the top and bottom edges of the pads where they will slide in the caliper. You may find that your pads are a tight fit - firstly check that the caliper is completely free of any debris; if so, file the top and bottom edges of the pads (the metal backing) until they drop into the caliper freely. Refit the wear sensor to the inside pad as shown.
Take a little time to clean up the retaining spring and pins. A wire brush should do the trick
Slide the bottom pin in first through the rear of the caliper, through the holes in both pads and into the locating hole in the caliper. Insert the spring and tension it with your fingers whilst sliding the top pin into place. Tap the pins from behind to ensure they're fitted securely.
Admire your work
Before refitting the wheel(s) give them a good clean. I washed, clayed, and de-tarred my wheels before rinsing and drying. A couple of coats of wheel sealant (I use poorboys), followed by a couple of coats of wax will keep a lot of muck off and resist brake dust. Finally, some tyre cleaner was used before refitting the wheel to the hub. I then polished my stainless steel wheel bolts with Autosol before fitting them. Tighten by hand, making sure the wheel is fully located to the hub.
Lastly, jack the car up using the jacking point, remove the axle stand and lower to the ground. Torque the wheel bolts up to the correct settings and check these again after 50 miles or so of use.
I'll write up the rears a little later.
I will detail below how I changed the discs and pads, but will take no responsibility for anyone who uses this as a guide.
Tools required:
Trolley jack/lift
Axle stands
Socket set
Wheel wrench/torque wrench
Wheel chocks
19mm offset spanner
Flat-bladed screwdriver
Pliers
To remove the wheels I have a separate 22mm socket that I wrapped in insulating tape to make sure the wheels can't get scratched or damaged during removal:
FRONT DISC AND PAD CHANGE
I chose to change both front discs at the same time, but they can also be done individually if preferred. Chock the rear wheels and then loosen the front wheel bolts with a 22mm socket.
Find the front jacking point(s) on the car. These are identifiable as square plates with a round hole in the middle. Mine have a little surface corrosion, so they're on the list to clean up and protect. Jack the car up on these points ONLY
The nearside jacking point area for reference:
Once raised to a sufficient height to remove the wheels, support the car on axle stands. I use the following location:
Remove the wheel and store safely, making sure it won't fall over on it's face. You then have full access to the discs and pads:
Take note of the location of the brake pad warning sensor on the front nearside. There is a 2-pin plug situated on the upper wishbone:
The cable runs from the plug to the inside brake pad:
To remove the brake pads you will need to remove the 2 pins and spring that hold the pads in place. Use a suitable tool to drive the pins out - I use an old screwdriver shaft. Remove the top pin first and make sure that the spring doesn't fly out and hit something/you
With the top pin removed the spring no longer has any tension. Lever the spring downwards and remove. Drive the bottom pin out next.
Pins and spring removed:
Now remove the old brake pads. They might be tightly held in the caliper, so use some pliers to pull them out. Note the brake pad wear sensor is still fitted to the brake pad.
My old pads were not too badly worn as they were fitted late last year. I have fitted brand new pads regardless and will keep these as emergency spares.
A close up of the other end of the wear sensor. It simply slots into place in the middle of the brake pad. Mine hadn't worn at all, so was cleaned and reused. £11 plus delivery charge saved!
If you're simply changing pads then jump down to where I show them being refitted.
If you're changing the discs then read on...
The calipers need removal next. You will need a 19mm socket for the two bolts that hold the caliper to the hub at the rear:
With the bolts removed you will need to support the caliper. I use an axle stand:
Disc removal time. There are 2 13mm bolts holding the disc to the hub. Undo these and the disc should slide off the hub with a little help
My old discs were in a bad state; holes filled with crud (despite periodic cleaning) and cracked around the holes. The new discs are built to a specification that should reduce this significantly.
You have now removed everything, but before refitting I strongly recommend you clean everything up thoroughly.
I clean the hub with degreaser, a wire brush and then a stanley knife blade to ensure the face of the hub is completely clean and flat. Even the slightest dirt left on the hub can make the disc vibrate and compromise braking efficiency and ride:
View attachment 29227
Next, spend some time cleaning the brake caliper thoroughly, especially the stainless steel guides that the pads slide on. My calipers had a huge build up of dirt, so I spent a lot of time cleaning off as much as I could. What I've realised is that I now want to completely overhaul the calipers with new seals, pistons and bleed nipples as well as a fresh coat of paint (in the best colour!).
Fit the new disc to the clean hub and secure with the 2 13mm bolts. I cleaned the bolts with a wire brush and applied a little copper grease to the threads to make removal easier next time:
Then refit the cleaned caliper, securing it with the 2 19mm bolts. Again, these got a good clean. It's advised to use Loctite or a similar threadlock on these bolts when refitting. Do not put copper grease on these bolts.
Time to fit the new brake pads. Put a thin smear of copper grease on the rear of the pads; this will stop them from squealing. Also put some of the grease on the top and bottom edges of the pads where they will slide in the caliper. You may find that your pads are a tight fit - firstly check that the caliper is completely free of any debris; if so, file the top and bottom edges of the pads (the metal backing) until they drop into the caliper freely. Refit the wear sensor to the inside pad as shown.
Take a little time to clean up the retaining spring and pins. A wire brush should do the trick
Slide the bottom pin in first through the rear of the caliper, through the holes in both pads and into the locating hole in the caliper. Insert the spring and tension it with your fingers whilst sliding the top pin into place. Tap the pins from behind to ensure they're fitted securely.
Admire your work
Before refitting the wheel(s) give them a good clean. I washed, clayed, and de-tarred my wheels before rinsing and drying. A couple of coats of wheel sealant (I use poorboys), followed by a couple of coats of wax will keep a lot of muck off and resist brake dust. Finally, some tyre cleaner was used before refitting the wheel to the hub. I then polished my stainless steel wheel bolts with Autosol before fitting them. Tighten by hand, making sure the wheel is fully located to the hub.
Lastly, jack the car up using the jacking point, remove the axle stand and lower to the ground. Torque the wheel bolts up to the correct settings and check these again after 50 miles or so of use.
I'll write up the rears a little later.