allandwf
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I've taken about a year up to now! lol
Conaero's Spider Rebuild
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conaero
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Oil Cooler pipes, you will love that mate!
Some advice, disconnect the cooler and leave it with the engine, if you try and undo the rad end pipes, they will strip the thread, then you will need new pipes and the rad, circa £350.
Its best to carefully remove the engine with the cooler and all the pipes, tie them up out of the way and dont stress the lines.
If its a must that you undo the cooler lines, you will have to do this from the engine end, round the back, and its a fiddly old job:
http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/Oil_cooler_gtv_3l.shtml
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allandwf
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Yes, I did intend to take them off at the engine end, and remove them together with the cooler. I've seen various posts etc. about the awkwardness and the need for a dumpy 22mm spanner, but I'll give it a go. The cooler and the pipes look reasonably new, so I don't want to risk damaging them when removing the engine.
conaero
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Well good luck, I guess you be quiet for the next few days, PM me your number if you get stuck and Ill call you back if I can be of any assistance.
When I removed my cooler from the engine, I decided to separate the pipes from the rad and surprise, surprise the thread was just dust.
I took it to my engineer and he welded on a new fitting to the rad, then cut the pipes, remove the nuts then put some more on and rewelded the whole thing back up...a superb job and cost me about £50, worth every penny.
Not sure he would do it again as I know there was a lot of swearing as the welder hit the residue oil and kept bursting in his face.
When I removed my cooler from the engine, I decided to separate the pipes from the rad and surprise, surprise the thread was just dust.
I took it to my engineer and he welded on a new fitting to the rad, then cut the pipes, remove the nuts then put some more on and rewelded the whole thing back up...a superb job and cost me about £50, worth every penny.
Not sure he would do it again as I know there was a lot of swearing as the welder hit the residue oil and kept bursting in his face.
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conaero
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Brakes update, problem, soft pedal:
Took the Spider to my local garage after I gave up bleeding them, brakes better, still not perfect though. The issue is with the front Brembos I rebuilt. If they clamp off the pipes to both front callipers, I get a strong pedal. This rules out air in the system from the master, through the ABS unit and down to the caliper and also rules out failed components. It sounds like air in the callipers but I am assured its not. Might have to take them apart again but for now they are fine, Ill do it over the winter.
The brakes are all new and squeal on braking when hot and yes, I have copper slip on the pads.
Last job to do is to fit the sub. I have mocked up the brackets in MDF, need to cut them from Ali now then wire it up.
The roof had a paddy last week and would stall part way through the open and close cycle. I manually pushed it and now its fine....you gota love these cars, they are more unpredictable than wives!
Took the Spider to my local garage after I gave up bleeding them, brakes better, still not perfect though. The issue is with the front Brembos I rebuilt. If they clamp off the pipes to both front callipers, I get a strong pedal. This rules out air in the system from the master, through the ABS unit and down to the caliper and also rules out failed components. It sounds like air in the callipers but I am assured its not. Might have to take them apart again but for now they are fine, Ill do it over the winter.
The brakes are all new and squeal on braking when hot and yes, I have copper slip on the pads.
Last job to do is to fit the sub. I have mocked up the brackets in MDF, need to cut them from Ali now then wire it up.
The roof had a paddy last week and would stall part way through the open and close cycle. I manually pushed it and now its fine....you gota love these cars, they are more unpredictable than wives!
You may be able to sort the brake squeal by removing the pads and roughing up the face with some coarse sandpaper.
conaero
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I think I need to file the pads down more, one was a little snug but not binding but as they get hot they expand, and...
Ill have the pads out one at a time and cycle the pistons to make sure they are not sticking by using a wooden block to wedge the second piston.
Ill have the pads out one at a time and cycle the pistons to make sure they are not sticking by using a wooden block to wedge the second piston.
outrun
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ooh shiny....
conaero
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Had the same issue with water in the oil Allan. When we stripped the engine the head gaskets looked like they have been at the bottom of the sea, so you will need to change them.
It could of course be condensation but the head gaskets were so bad. I think these cars like to be used so standing for a year does it no favours.
When you do change the head gaskets, make sure you dont move the cylinder liners, it make the lower liner o ring seal fail and blow the head gaskets again.
Ship the engine to Duncan on a pallet and get him to inspect it. £250 is all he charged me and I supplied the parts, pump, cambelt and gasket set, so add another £400 to that price, worth it though.
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conaero
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Just a pretty much final update with my brake issue that I finally managed to solve.
The issue was, after the master cylinder and callipers were all removed, the brake pedal travel was excessive, feeling like the system had air in it.
What this turned out to be was a stuck front Brembo calliper pistons.
It turns out, if you totally discharge the brake system of fluid, and push the calliper pistons all the way in, the pistons stick and do not move under pressure.
Jack the car up and remove both front wheels.
Remove one of the brake pads and put either a very worn pad or a bit of wood of a similar thickness.
Then pump the brakes and watch the piston come out. Chances are, one piston will move and the other will be stuck.
Lever the piston or wiggle with some sort of grips then all of a sudden it will move.
Cycle the callipers by levering them in and out to make sure they are free.
refit the pads but dont push the pistons all the way back in.
Repeat on the other pads/calipers.
The car is pretty much all done now. I do have to detail the car as it has some overspray and fit the sub, but all minor jobs that dont detract from the car.
Got offered £10k for it last week, but turned it down.
The issue was, after the master cylinder and callipers were all removed, the brake pedal travel was excessive, feeling like the system had air in it.
What this turned out to be was a stuck front Brembo calliper pistons.
It turns out, if you totally discharge the brake system of fluid, and push the calliper pistons all the way in, the pistons stick and do not move under pressure.
Jack the car up and remove both front wheels.
Remove one of the brake pads and put either a very worn pad or a bit of wood of a similar thickness.
Then pump the brakes and watch the piston come out. Chances are, one piston will move and the other will be stuck.
Lever the piston or wiggle with some sort of grips then all of a sudden it will move.
Cycle the callipers by levering them in and out to make sure they are free.
refit the pads but dont push the pistons all the way back in.
Repeat on the other pads/calipers.
The car is pretty much all done now. I do have to detail the car as it has some overspray and fit the sub, but all minor jobs that dont detract from the car.
Got offered £10k for it last week, but turned it down.
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conaero
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Ok, so the Spider is mothballed for the winter so I have some final fettling to do.
I have had an annoying squeak coming from the rear suspension, so yesterday I got her up on the ramp and started stripping for a full polybush rear end rebuild. All arms are out, de bushed, cleaned and painted ready for refitting. I did fine the squeak issue...totally knackered upper arm balljoints...there was 4mm of play in one, scary!
Luckily you can unbolt the balljoint and simply replace them (£20 each) and not have to fork out £400 for a new pair.
Car in many bits and I have a service to do on her too, a polish and she will be good for another summer or fun, miss driving her.
I have had an annoying squeak coming from the rear suspension, so yesterday I got her up on the ramp and started stripping for a full polybush rear end rebuild. All arms are out, de bushed, cleaned and painted ready for refitting. I did fine the squeak issue...totally knackered upper arm balljoints...there was 4mm of play in one, scary!
Luckily you can unbolt the balljoint and simply replace them (£20 each) and not have to fork out £400 for a new pair.
Car in many bits and I have a service to do on her too, a polish and she will be good for another summer or fun, miss driving her.