My 3200 GT hard to start
- Thread starter Alecci
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CatmanV2
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Is anyone keeping a score
Dave
15-love I think, but it is a bit tedious, and to coin a phrase 'disappointing'. Not because it's not funny, as it is. But it's the same people making the same comments every time.....
C
Alecci
Junior Member
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OK, here's the latest news.
I connected the TB to check for initial movement of the butterfly (between closed and idle position) and a buzzing noise once the ignition was turned on. The butterfly moved, but there was no buzzing sound.
On page 82, chapter Engine - Fuel Supply of the workshop manual, the following is stated:
"After completing the installation operations, check the following:
- move the ignition swith to MAR and check that the actuator simultaneously moves to the mechanical stopper (characteristic metallic noise);
- keep the ignition switch at MAR and check that the command remains (slight buzzing coming from the actuator)."
The first of the two above is fulfilled, but not the second.
On page 99 of the same chapter, under the heading Recovery it also says:
"...
4. throttle not supplied, engine speed limiting to 1500-2000 rpm (via cut-off and open waste-gate) for level II throttle body recovery."
This is consistent with my experiences. When starting the engine, it idle's at around 800 rpm but if I put a gear in and let the car drive on idle, the revs climb to about 1600-1800 rpm although I have no control at all over the throttle and remain unable to rev the engine.
I didn't manage to get my hands on a voltmeter (will do on Monday), but at least - through the workshop manual - got a hint on where to measure for an output. I did, however, locate all the fuses and relays for the DBW-system. I checked them and cleaned them and their connectors, though it made no difference.
So, in order to do a short recap, here are all the symptoms at the present:
1: If allowing the start-up diagnostic complete, the engine will not start and I will get no CODE error light.
2: If not allowing the start-up diagnostic to complete, the engine will start every time, but the CODE error light will lit unless using red master key.
3: When started, the engine will not rev above idle at ~800 rpm.
4: If a gear is selected and I let the car drive on idle, the revs will climb to about 1600-1800 rpm.
5: Butterfly moves when turning ignition on, but there's no buzzing whatsoever - not before, during or after movement of the butterlfy.
6: I still get the following DTCs:
As members here have previously pointed out, the start issues and the rev issues are propbably (although not definately) two separate problems. Let's focus on the latter for a start, since if I at least get the car driveable I can drive to winter storage and continue trouble-shooting the former in spring.
On a completely different topic; as those from the board who have met me will testify, I've got no problems with a little friendly banter, but please keep this thread clean and to the point.
I connected the TB to check for initial movement of the butterfly (between closed and idle position) and a buzzing noise once the ignition was turned on. The butterfly moved, but there was no buzzing sound.
On page 82, chapter Engine - Fuel Supply of the workshop manual, the following is stated:
"After completing the installation operations, check the following:
- move the ignition swith to MAR and check that the actuator simultaneously moves to the mechanical stopper (characteristic metallic noise);
- keep the ignition switch at MAR and check that the command remains (slight buzzing coming from the actuator)."
The first of the two above is fulfilled, but not the second.
On page 99 of the same chapter, under the heading Recovery it also says:
"...
4. throttle not supplied, engine speed limiting to 1500-2000 rpm (via cut-off and open waste-gate) for level II throttle body recovery."
This is consistent with my experiences. When starting the engine, it idle's at around 800 rpm but if I put a gear in and let the car drive on idle, the revs climb to about 1600-1800 rpm although I have no control at all over the throttle and remain unable to rev the engine.
I didn't manage to get my hands on a voltmeter (will do on Monday), but at least - through the workshop manual - got a hint on where to measure for an output. I did, however, locate all the fuses and relays for the DBW-system. I checked them and cleaned them and their connectors, though it made no difference.
So, in order to do a short recap, here are all the symptoms at the present:
1: If allowing the start-up diagnostic complete, the engine will not start and I will get no CODE error light.
2: If not allowing the start-up diagnostic to complete, the engine will start every time, but the CODE error light will lit unless using red master key.
3: When started, the engine will not rev above idle at ~800 rpm.
4: If a gear is selected and I let the car drive on idle, the revs will climb to about 1600-1800 rpm.
5: Butterfly moves when turning ignition on, but there's no buzzing whatsoever - not before, during or after movement of the butterlfy.
6: I still get the following DTCs:
As members here have previously pointed out, the start issues and the rev issues are propbably (although not definately) two separate problems. Let's focus on the latter for a start, since if I at least get the car driveable I can drive to winter storage and continue trouble-shooting the former in spring.
On a completely different topic; as those from the board who have met me will testify, I've got no problems with a little friendly banter, but please keep this thread clean and to the point.
ledlights
Junior Member
- Messages
- 189
P1225 is the TB potentiometer error (I had the same code when I had my TB worries after its contactless conversion), so I'm pretty sure getting that checked will sort out your running problems.
As you say, the other problem may well be separate.
Cheers,
Steve
As you say, the other problem may well be separate.
Cheers,
Steve
davy83
Member
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- 2,829
I would like to see how it behaves with a different TB fitted, as i have said previously I would try to get Bill to lend you a known working unit, I think your TB has issues but I suspect its a wood for the trees thing, you will get a better feel for what is still not right if you get the TB fixed.
ledlights
Junior Member
- Messages
- 189
Here's a link to the disassembly of the similar ETM from a Volvo V70:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=38504
The 2 common faults I'm aware of are that the magnetic rotor under the end cap corrodes and causes the butterfly to stick in position and that the resistor foil wears through leading to the driver card moving the butterfly to get positional feedback.
If your TB has been converted to a contactless position sensor you should be able to see a non-Magneti Marelli make on one of the end caps (usually either SACER or XeMODeX).
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=38504
The 2 common faults I'm aware of are that the magnetic rotor under the end cap corrodes and causes the butterfly to stick in position and that the resistor foil wears through leading to the driver card moving the butterfly to get positional feedback.
If your TB has been converted to a contactless position sensor you should be able to see a non-Magneti Marelli make on one of the end caps (usually either SACER or XeMODeX).
alfatwo
Member
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- 5,517
I feel very sorry for you Alecci.....Ive had my late low milage 2001 3200GT for over a year now and no problems what so ever..
I've replaced lots of age related stuff,ie the spark plugs were over 13years old and according to the service manual didn't need replacing till the car had done 18k,that would be around 2015..
Don't you just love Italian cars
Dave
I've replaced lots of age related stuff,ie the spark plugs were over 13years old and according to the service manual didn't need replacing till the car had done 18k,that would be around 2015..
Don't you just love Italian cars
Dave
Last edited:
alfatwo
Member
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- 5,517
I know what your saying,but strickly speaking Maserati 3200 service says 18K between plug changes.. it total ******** when your talking about a low miles 15 year old car
Buy the way the original 3200GT NGK spark plugs are still work perfectly well ten years on!
Dave
Buy the way the original 3200GT NGK spark plugs are still work perfectly well ten years on!
Dave
Last edited:
davy83
Member
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- 2,829
Show off!!! I am getting comments from work mate because i have not had to do any repairs for 2 months now, longest run in 5 years.
I feel very sorry for you Alecci.....Ive had my late low milage 2001 3200GT for over a year now and no problems what so ever..
I've replaced lots of age related stuff,ie the spark plugs were over 13years old and according to the service manual didn't need replacing till the car had done 18k,that would be around 2015..
Don't you just love Italian cars
Dave
Skid1769
Junior Member
- Messages
- 176
NOt wanting to teach anyone to suck eggs but I have had this problem on occasion and it has been either trying to restart the car immediately after shutting it down without letting it run briefly first, or that the immobiliser has been on, the padlock displayed on the dashboard, normally I have been a bit quick getting into the car before the alarm system has done its thin. Hope this helps.?
Regards
Stuart
Regards
Stuart
Contigo
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Read this Alecci. IT says those two codes P0225 and P1225 are if the PP is disconnected. Is it worth cleaning the connector and checking the ground on yours?
http://www.maseratiforum.co.uk/m_70185/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#70207
http://www.maseratiforum.co.uk/m_70185/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#70207